The Infragram project has used a variety of filters to make Do-It-Yourself infrared cameras, as well as infrared-visible multispectral cameras. This page is about choosing filters for different purposes.
## Red vs Blue
Both blue and red filters are intended to block most visible light in one channel, to then use that channel for near-infrared light. This way, a single camera can be used to take simultaneous visible light and near-infrared light photos -- one in the red channel, one in the blue channel (we discard the green channel).
**Most recent DIY efforts on Public Lab have focused on red filters**, but early on we used blue filters. A red filter (the most common conversion we see on Public Lab as of October 2017) results in vegetation appearing pale blue, and a blue filter typically results in vegetation appearing pale yellow.
_Left: pale blue from a RED filter; Right: pale yellow from a BLUE filter. Images by @mathew and [Eclectis students](https://publiclab.org/n/9372)_
### Background on filter choice
There's a lot of research about this choice here:
## Filter sources
We've been using Rosco theater gels as filters, and we currently [carry the red Rosco Fire # 19 in the Public Lab store](https://store.publiclab.org/collections/diy-infrared-photography)
Red filters include:
* Rosco Fire # 19
Blue filters include:
* Rosco # 2007
* Rosco # 87
Also see this research on various Rosco filters:
And the Rosco website: http://us.rosco.com/en
And an article on the history of Rosco filters: http://www.rosco.com/spectrum/index.php/2016/11/decoding-the-language-of-color/
## Exposed negative film
To make a camera take **only** near-infrared photos, you can use a piece of exposed negative film as a filter. This will block most visible light (since the red, green, and blue channels are blocked) but will allow infrared light. ...