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Infragram convertible cameras

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A page listing cameras which can be converted for near-infrared, and requests for photos/documentation of cameras to be converted.

Excellent

Cameras which are easy to convert and work well:

Canon

Canons usually convert easily and are a favorite:

  • Canon A490 or A495 (see conversion on YouTube) or below (~$50, 10 megapixel) Works well with a Rosco #2007 filter.
  • Canon A480 - Almost the same as the A490, but watch out for the springs!
  • Canon A1200
  • Canon A2200 The buttons on the back of the camera have an internal button pad with a ribbon cable. Note how that ribbon cable is threaded around things before you move those things. It's easy to reassemble things wrong so that the ribbon cable is torn.
  • Canon A1300. Virtually the same procedure as with the A2200 above.
  • Canon A810: The IR block filter removal went smoothly and was successful even though I had never opened up a camera before. Its 16 megapixels is more than you really need.
  • Canon A800 It was really straight forward like the other cameras.
  • Canon S4000 IS - The camera is very tightly built but not hard to open and convert, and works well with Rosco #74 filters.
  • Canon Digital Rebel (various, external site, very involved)
  • list cameras here

Generic brand mini-cameras

These typically have 720p or 1080p sensors and sometimes come with waterproof cases.

  • several examples here have been very easy conversions, but have not worked well for infrablue photos, due to the blue channel leaking infrared light. We're currently looking for cameras with better characteristics.

  • Mobius ActionCam

Webcams


Acceptable

Cameras which can be converted although it may not be ideal (please state why!)

Smartphones

Extra difficult, but could be very exciting to have a smartphone that can do this!

Canon

  • Canon Powershot SX120 IS: This camera has full manual controls and a 360 mm (eqiv.) zoom lens. The goal was to take infrablue Gigapans. One ribbon cable must be unplugged, but it's pretty easy. Twenty-five screws must be accessed from the outside or back, as usual, but two deep internal screws must be accessed from the front, so the entire camera must be disassembled (31 screws total). The IR block filter is under a plate which is attached to the front of the sensor with two screws. While removing the filter, it touched the sensor. The reassembled camera worked fine, but there was a blotch where the sensor is damaged (see image). So I bought a new sensor ($13 ebay). It would be hard to install a film or polyester filter instead of the IR block filter -- it would not stay in place.
    SX120convert.jpg
    Guide to most of the screws to get to the IR block filter in a Canon SX120. Note damage to sensor (photo taken by reassembled camera).

  • Canon PowerShot A2400: conversion tutorial here - very difficult one due to the ribbon cables coming unclamped repeatedly; some have reported only a 66% success rate.

  • list cameras here

Requests

Cameras which have not yet been converted -- if you've done it, please move it up!

Videos

This video, listed above, shows the removal of a filter on a Canon A495, but then shows a film negative filter taped to the front. For Infragram conversions, we recommend you put the Infragram filter inside the camera -- exactly where the IR-block filter used to be.

Focus

Some people report blurry photos after installing a new filter. Some of these people have been able to fix this by tightening the screws which hold the sensor down. It's possible that the rubber gasket under the sensor has been shifted and stopped the sensor from properly screwing in.

After conversion to NIR, a camera will generally produce slightly blurrier photos. This is usually due to the filter material (film, plastic, or gel) which is inferior to glass as an optical element. In addition, infrared light is refracted by the lens less than the visible light cameras are designed to focus. When a new filter replaces the IR block filter, that filter usually transmits less light, so exposures have to be longer, ISO has to be higher, or the aperture has to be wider. All three of these things can make photos less sharp, and finding a compromise among them is important.

Read more about this and peoples' solutions here: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/plots-infrared/blurry/plots-infrared/cqX3zqfzes8/LPGeGuCMwuQJ and here: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/grassrootsmapping/wjQd2Twq_pY, and here:http://publiclab.org/notes/cfastie/11-07-2013/focus-on-filters#comments.